Ride Report #25: Bento Goncalves to Porto Alegre, Brasil to Minas, UY to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

I headed out of Bento Goncalves to meet my buddy, Eduardo, in a neighboring city after his business meeting. However, I received an early call telling me of car problems. So I set out to meet him and help however I could. But by the time I found him, the car had been loaded on truck, down the hill we went for Porto Alegre.


With a HUGE day coming I chose to stay in and get some rest at Ed's house. The next day I aimed to ride from Porto Alegre to the Uruguay border and as far down as I could.


I made it to the border after a few hundred KM of beautiful, lush countryside of cows, rolling hills and tranquil bodies of water.

I decided to stop in a town called Minas, UY as the sun was setting and I was getting tired. This quaint colonial town was a pleasant surprise! Narrow streets and colorful antique buildings. Everyone was out in the square for the afternoon mate drinking as I found my hotel. I am always intrigued by these very small, but beautiful town that seem so insulated yet full of character and true identity. I set out to get some dinner and a beer, but must have gone out too early because I was alone in the restaurant. I tried to hang in and stay up the check the local bar scene, considering it was Friday night, but after a long day of nearly 700 km my eyes were lead.




Leaving the next morning I past these most vivid flowers and snapped a few shots.

I met two of these guys in Mendoza a few months before and randomly saw them again at this gas station in Colonia del Sacramento, UY. They were heading across from Buenos Aires and heading north and eventually back to the US. They had a good trip other than the brutal attack they unfortunately received at a soccer game just days before in BA. Black eyes and broken ribs never a comfortable ride.

The Indian in my buddy's garage that was to share a space with my Vstrom.


When you finishing drinking mate, don't say "gracias" unless you do not care for anymore. It wont get passed to you again if you you do.


I was connected with a fellow moto rider in Colonia, UY just across the water from Buenos Aires, who offered to store my bike for a while. It was all a good plan, but I later found out I got the wrong papers when I entered into Uruguay...

Casa Valduga and Lidio Carraro Vinicolas, Bento Goncalves, Brasil

While in Rio I sent emails in an attempt to obtain some information on Brasilian wines. I received a reply from a very professional and helpful representative from Wines from Brasil. He helped to facilitate the process of deciding where to visit in my very short time in Bento Goncalves and to set up meetings. During my tour of Casa Valduga I was treated extremely well as the English speaking export manager educated me on the history of the family, it's role in the Brasilian wine industry as well as local culture. The same is true for my time with Lidio Carrero starting when I was picked up and driven to the vinicola (winery) to meet with the daughter of the wine maker for a tasting of their fantastic boutique wines.

Before the tour I was able to taste some of the typically southern Brasilian cuisine, which is heavily influenced by the local Italian immigrants. Starting with a Capaletti soup, some fresh greens, pastas and meats all being passed by servers moving around the dinning room.

The meal was finished with Sagu, a traditional desert from this area made with WINE, tapioca and sugar.

THE first bottle of wine produced by the Valduga family after they shifted from being solely a producer and seller of grapes to a proper vinicola.

The red stuff being bottled.

The largest cellar of delicious sparkling white wine in South America.

The sparkling white bottles ready for disgorging, after the second fermentation in which the crown cap is removed along with the yeast that has collected beneath the cap.

Time to put a cork in it.

Making sure there is no yeast floating around.

One of the owners likes to use vines to imprint in the ceiling leaving this design.

Popping a cork the old fashioned way, WITH A SWORD!

Casa Valduga is investing in their sparkling white wine program, which is understandable once you have a taste. The soil in this region is slightly more acidic which is more conducive for grapes to be used in the production of sparkling wine.

Perfection!

Lidio Carraro, a boutique vinicola run by the Carraro family, graciously opened its doors to me so I could meet with the Patricia Carraro as she explained the family's history and plans for the future. One of the most striking differences that I found was the choice to leave oak out of the equation. They are in the mindset that oak detracts from the "true expression" of the grape. There is also a strong emphasis on research in soil types and location of the vineyards. I found many of the varietals a pleasant surprise and with an unopened Tempranillo and a Tannat in my bag I am anxiously awaiting the discovery of yet two more of Carraro's fine wines.

Ride Report #23 & #24: Florianopolis to Lages to Bento Goncalves, Brasil.

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Leaving Florianopolis on this sunny morning, looking out over the town of Lagoa set in between two fresh water lagoons, next to the sand dunes in the center before the Atlantic in the distance.

The bridge connecting the island of Florianopolis to the continent.

A few house after riding highway south along the coast started to climb up this steep ledge to the high plains.

Lots of these!

The higher I climbed the more moisture I met. This a beautiful road shooting straight up this lushly covered ledge lined with flowers and small waterfalls.

And then you arrive on top! A massive highland in stark contrast to the landscape below, and FREEZING!

I made it to Lages, the round about way, and the only place I stopped I was met with this fellow who owned the gas station. He seemed fascinated by the bike and journey and insisted on leading me through town as I only had an hour of light to get to the next town, an hour plus away. Once again, I have met a selfless Brasiliero! Unfortunately, once I got out of town I ran head on into the darkness and heavy rain and fog making it impossible to see ANYTHING. I stopped, and turned around for town and safe and dry place to rest.

It poured cold rain all night, and failed to cease the following morning. I sat in my room looking out the window for a while until I finally strapped on all the synthetic and waterproofish clothing I had to do battle with the elements. I am running out of time and do not have the luxury of waiting out the storm. I made plans to get to Bento Goncalves to meet some wineries.

I was hoping it would not come to this, but it was entirely necessary this day, as the rain was hard, cold and consistent. It was a good test for me, to stay focused, calm, cautious and ignore the discomfort. Honestly, they were some of the best rolling country roads I had ridden, and I hope to ride them again under different weather conditions!

The pot of gold at the end of the rainbow! Pousada Villa dei Fiori, Bento Goncalves! I rolled in just before dark and the owner came out telling me that she was worried about me in these conditions and was happy to see me. I instantly began to melt. She brought me in and started to light a fire in the SUITE that she said I should have for the same price as a single because I had a hard day. HA. I tell you, I do not deserve this! I insisted otherwise, and then was too tired to fight. I was so happy to have a fire and bed! Later in the evening she prepared three types of meats, salad, broccoli pasta, some sort of cheesy casserole with wine. I was in heaven. I love that lady.